Into April

March 26, 2012

Cadiere, France,


I haven't written for a while. After returning from the Canary Islands to meet Bhumi in Provence.. and after a week of touring around we returned to St. Hippo to begin to sort out the practical problems of life together. There have definitely been times when I was convinced that it wasn't going to work. Sometimes because the practical, financial and material aspects were too far out of whack. Sometimes because it seemed to be an impossible matchup on the emotional level. But these have been the low points, so really it has been a roller coaster with highs and lows. Sometimes convinced that this was the stupidest thing I ever did. Sometimes that it is the best. The trend is positive as we keep moving through the challenges. I think I/we began a new cycle a few days ago after realizing that I am overly dependent on Bhumi because of my lack of French and inability to deal with anything like insurance or phones, etc. On the other hand overly arrogant about Bhumi's problem with disorganization and priorities …… and my superior way of seeing everything. Something shifted. A better balance. Less sensitivity and more cooperation. So now is a good time to write.
   
A few big steps so far. We got the Espace van, the one that was given to us by a stranger.. now a friend.. in Provence. After some brake work it is drivable with a few more things needed but nothing major. Next, we got Bhumi out of the flat in St. Hippo. This added some to the burden of things to sort through on the land outside of town where we are living full time now but it was a really good move. We are putting our energies into this piece of land that Bhumi owns. It has a caravan which I have been working on… helping clear out and organize… the usual. Also a couple of rustic buildings, one a cabin that is now only for storage, and a workshop for Bhumi's business that is also a rough structure, but has potential to become a house if the proper approvals can be gained. There is a small caravan that I may use as an office eventually. Also the ruins of a small 'mazet'.. a kind of shed made of stone that is grandfathered in as a footprint for building. And the Mercedes panel truck, which serves as a guest bedroom. We heat water outside and have an outdoor kitchen to complement the kitchen in the caravan. We recharge car batteries at our neighbor, Serges… a daily ritual walking 5 minutes there and back. From this we get minimal power for internet/phone. Mostly light with candles at night. For the while it is far better to be in camping mode here than in town in the crappy apartment. The weather is mild and it rarely rains… actually in a drought. Stars at night. Privacy, elbow room and nature. In time it would be best to create a real house, but it is not certain that we are going down this path. In the meantime.. incremental improvements. Electricity and hot water on demand are the big conveniences that are lacking for now.

The property is only about 20 meters wide but stretches far back, with four terraces. All bounded by stone walls. There are many olive trees, a couple of walnut trees and gardens that Bhumi has worked on over the years. The ground is hard and too dry for many kinds of plants without irrigation so there are a system of pipes and hoses throughout. The area around us has many vineyards of various sizes. It lies in a valley between two ridges. The higher ridge, which marks the boundary of the high country of the Cevenne to the north is rather dramatic. One sees the profile of a woman's face on the limestone ridge that is called ' La Marianne'. A neighbor and friend of Bhumi, told us that he found a cave over on the opposite side of "la Marianne" with human remains that were dated back 15,000 - 25,000 years. Also that the Germans hid nitro glycerin in another cave there and that someday if a bit of roof collapses "La Marianne" might blow her nose.

Last night we pulled a tub close to the fire and wonder of wonders… made a bath. Today a friend came and helped me construct a frame for a new roof on the caravan. He has also been helpful in lending a generator and a saw. Last week I rearranged some things in the caravan and built shelves. I am back in handyman mode trying to make do with a minimum of tools and off the grid.

April 1,

La Grau du Roi

We are at the coast of the Mediterranean for my birthday, for a break and to try out the Espace as a camping vehicle. We stopped enroute through Montpellier at a French version of Home Depot and I bought some much needed tools. At our first beach stop and 'swim' in the cold water Bhumi stepped on a stonefish. Very painful sting. A young caretaker with dreadlocks who was staying on the beach reassured Bhumi that it would pass in half an hour or so and then provided her cigarettes to heat the affected toe as a remedy. And so we sat until the sun went down. Typical Bhumi encounter. Then went into town for pizza a beer and finally on to a point of land with a preserve: beaches and dunes. Ended up parking in the lot of a nearby business rather than the beach parking lot, which seemed to be a hangout for people of dubious intentions. Next day the boss of the business came to inquire about us parking there and Bhumi charmed him into giving us permission to stay another night. He agreed that the beach lot was not a safe place. So we had our fine little adhoc campground complete with bathroom and a view of the marshes. No hot showers, but … hey. The beach reminds me of S. NJ. Water still too cold for swimming. Lots of wind… the Mistral that blows down the Rhone. Dudes and Dudesses enjoying the clothing optional beach. La Grau du Roi is a port town and a beach resort catering to tourists, full of restaurants, with a canal running through the center and a mixture of boats for work and for pleasure. Not ancient, but not too modern either. Reachable by bus from St. Hippo for a couple of Euros, so easy to return later.

We are now sitting at a nice outdoor cafe on the beach. Had a burger AKA 'steak hache' with frittes. They even had ketchup (you have to ask…. which I was able to do in French… this is about my level. "Avez Vous Ketchup?". Maybe back to the beach this afternoon. Maybe head back later. Maybe stop and visit on the way. I am always asking, "What's the plan?" It's almost a joke, but really it is a balancing act between Bhumi and I. This weekend I am content to drift along with Bhumi's relaxed sense of time. Next week… back to work.



        

Spring is here. A night of much needed rain. Leaves just appearing on the grape vines. The plane trees that are so ubiquitous in these villages are finally filling with new foliage in time to provide shade from the summer sun. Here it is the heat that people speak of in the way that we speak of the cold in Vermont. A challenge. A good time to get out and come back to Vermont.