Barcelona Friday
Six AM. the last stragglers came in and claimed their bed.. a couple. Somehow got back to sleep. 8 AM a wasted looking young man came in and walked here and there among the bunk beds grabbing his crotch. He left to the curses of my roommates. I was ready to throw the bum out. I feel protective. Alba from Columbia and I had a nice chat. Two gals from Texas studying in Prague. A Japanese girl and one other who also speaks Spanish. Plus the couple who were in bed together as I left
Had hostel breakfast. No worse than your average Daze Inn continental breakfast. Packed to go to the beach and swim, leaving everything valuable except a few coins since I did want to worry about things left on the beach. Water was cold. Beachfront in winter mode. A dozen old men sitting and playing dominoes, four at a table. Olympic village and some very modern buildings.
I have nowhere in particular to go and no time to get there. I wandered through Barcelonetta, the old harbor front district with the narrow streets and laundry hanging from the balconies. Old pensioners shuffling along the streets. A small square here and there and another market place inside a very modern building. Wonderful energy of people selling their own wares. Fascinating displays of fresh fish. Huge shrimp, squid, grouper heads. I bought a small pastry to hold me over.
Continued toward Santa Maria de Mer cathedral. Enjoyed the peace and spaciousness of it. As always the gravity defying soaring stone structure. Some came to pray or light candles while I sat or moved about spending time studying the stained glass and statuary in the choirs. Many came in and snapped a picture or two and moved on. Is religion dead? Does it deserve to be? The city out there is dominated by commerce and the striving for a sharper image. Is that better than people dying in religious wars? Columbus, the hero, stands aloft a celebratory tower at the foot of La Rambla pointing out to sea. How much of this city was built with the gold of the Indians? Beautiful buildings everywhere.
And when I see Jesus on the cross I am moved.. again. Am I a Christian? I don't know. I feel somehow that he was trying to show us how to reach beyond and below something that lies on the surface. And nobody got it, really. The Catholic church got it, but used it. We think we are free of all that, but when I walk outside I feel that we are caught in something else just as pernicious, that we go to willingly. And, as ever, will kill to protect. Feels sad. I had a couple coins to give to either the cathedral or a beggar at the door. I gave them to the beggar.
Continued into the Gothic Quarter built upon Roman ruins, with a few towers from the walled city remaining. Next the Barcelona Cathedral. Here were the musicians. Wonderful music from a guitarist here, two there, and a pan pipe player. I'd like to go back to the museum. A chapel from the 13th century. First time I have touched something connecting to the time of the Cathars.
Back to the Hostel. Time for some food. A decent lunch at a cafe with 50 whole prosciuto legs hanging above the bar. Finally back again. Charge computer. Get these blog posts done. Need a nap. Dinner at 8:30 Hostel style. The worst parts of this hostel are what hit me at first. It is actually quite clean, and provides everything necessary. I have started meeting more people, mostly nice. Uniformly young. Many from US. The location is central and being on the Plaza gives even more a sense of place.
I decided to stay here till the 4th and then train direct to my first host in Nimes.
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